

The town of Aktau lies on the northeastern shores of the Caspian Sea and seems to be trying it’s best to convert itself from seaport to seaside town. I had two choices for a place to stay — a desperate sounding Soviet-era budget hovel or a cheerful but overpriced tourist cottage down by the beach. I chose the latter. That night a storm blew in and by morning the already empty beach was scattered with debris and the surf was attacking the wobbly pier.