

After a week’s wait, my ship finally sailed. Not wanting to deal with the visa and mandatory-guide hassles of traveling in Turkmenistan, I decided to go the less-traveled route across the Caspian Sea via western Kazakhstan instead. The trouble was that the ferry was what they called “irregular” – i.e. it left when it left which was typically every 7-10 days. Daily trips to the port office eventually resulted in a ticket and a promise of a passage within the next 24 hrs. After almost a full day of waiting we left port at dusk and by the same time next day I was looking at the lights of Aktau on the eastern shores of the Caspian Sea.