Theodosiopolis by Night
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Theodosiopolis by Night
Erzurum, Turkey

 

Theodosiopolis” is what they used to call it before the Byzantines finally lost the day to the Seljuck Turks back in the 11th Century.  These days it goes by the rather more prosaic name of Erzurum and is better known for Turkey’s best skiing in the nearby (currently snow-capped) Palandöken mountains.

For the last few weeks every time I mentioned to a Turkish person that I was on my way here they’d hug their shoulders and shiver — clearly communicating the international symbol for “it’s bloody cold there!”.  It turns out they were right and it is a bit chilly.  The daytime highs are hovering around a few degrees centigrade and the nights are dropping below freezing.  The town’s sights consist of some rather foreboding Seljuk mosques and madrassas that aren’t particularly enhanced by ominous grey skies.  Anyway, it’s dark by 4:30 in the afternoon which is right about the time one starts thinking it’s time to head inside for a cup of tea and some sort of cake.