

On my return visit to Azem Palace in Damascus I was heartened to find it lived up to my memories as the archetypal traditional Damascene urban home. Compared to most of Damascus its not old. Originally built in 1750 as the home of the governor of Damascus it was badly damaged in the 1925 Syrian Revolution but has since been lovingly restored.
Just a few minutes walk from the splendid Ummayad Mosque and the riot of the Damascus souk brings you to a pair of sturdy wooden doors that open into a scene of serenity and sublime beauty. The two wings – one public and one private – each surround a cool, tree-shaded courtyard. All around, the building walls are striped in alternating layers of yellow limestone, white sandstone and black basalt. Close inspection of the arched terraces reveal delicate geometric patterns in matching shades. Inside each of the cool, shuttered rooms is a either a fine collection of museum pieces (costumes, musical instruments, ceramics, etc) or a recreated domestic scene that works surprisingly well at bringing the room to life. Regardless of the contents, each room is a work of art in itself with stunning painted wooden ceilings, tiled floors and decorated walls. Despite the intensity of it all, the overall impression is one of refined sophistication and gentility that one assumes reflected the temperament of it’s occupants.