

Once past the Soviet-era concrete monstrosities on the outskirts of Sofia, the drive south to the Rila Mountains proved more scenic. Finally at the top of a winding wooded rode I arrived at the largest and most culturally significant monastery in Bulgaria.
The history of Rila Monastery is appropriately filled with episodes of biblical destruction and rebirth. Founded by followers of a 1st Century hermit, the whole thing burned to the ground and was rebuilt at least three times. It’s latest incarnation merits status as a UNESCO World Heritage site as a masterpiece of Bulgarian National Revival Style. I don’t claim to have any prior knowledge of said style but I can now firmly say I’m a fan. Who couldn’t love those stripes! The exterior looks like it’s made from Legos and the colonnade appears to be painted by twisted children with a fetish for medieval torture. No photos are allowed inside and I have to admit I tried to sneak a few – until I had a good look at the frescos full of gruesome punishments adorning the cold stone walls. The somber monks in flowing black habits lurking in the shadows didn’t reassure me that they treated modern day sinners much less severely. I decided plenty of snaps of the stripy exterior would have to satisfy my portfolio this time.