

In the home of the Hapsburgs and the former capital of the Holy Roman Empire, the urge to immerse oneself in culture persists no matter how many Wiener Schnitzels tempt the way towards depravity. I spent a day appreciating the Old Masters – Vermeer, Rembrandt, Caravaggio and Raphael – and an evening at the State Opera (in the €5 standing seats). The museums were extraordinary, the opera tedious and the whole day one to savor.